When I think about Colombia, I think first about food. Said no one, ever. Colombia is famous for a few things (three seasons-worth so far) but in terms of South American gastronomy, Peru usually hogs the limelight. TheĀ vibrant food scene of Colombia might not be top of mind, but that is fast-changing. While the country still struggles to shake off a shady reputation, it has become a must-visit destination for travellers looking for adventure, culture and – increasingly – world-class cuisine.
We spent six wonderful weeks eating our way around Colombia, taking in its majestic landscapes and meeting some wonderful people. There’s so much to see and do, it’s hard to know where to start. But, wherever you go, you’re gonna need some energy. Hearty breakfasts for fuel. Triple-carb lunches for sustenance. Deep-fried donuts for…. well, because why not? Who am I to judge?
What to eat in Colombia
Colombians take their food pretty seriously. Their mantra is:
Eat like a King for Breakfast, a Prince for lunch and a Pauper for dinner. We love this philosophy, especially because it’s a good way to save money. Lunch menus are often cheaper than dinner, Ā so you’ll have more money for beer cultural tourist activities.
A lot of Colombian food, especially street food, comes deep fried. Combined with the ginormous portions, it can be a bit heavy – especially if you try to match the locals whose appetite is ferocious!
Each department, or district, in Colombia has its own traditions when it comes to food, but a common theme runs through them all; meat and carbs. What’s not to love?
Keen to get a taste of local life, we took a culinary tour with La Mesa Food Tours. David, our guide, took us to some of the most famous spots in Envigado, a quiet city just outside Medellin, to indulge in the best local food Colombia has to offer. Check out some of our favourite recommendations for breakfast, lunch and dinner in Colombia.
Breakfast in Colombia
Breakfast traditions around the world are fascinating. Whether it’s a cappuccino and a corneto in Italy, a full fry up in the UK or rice and octopus in Indonesia (yes, really), breakfast is the most delicious, yet potentially controversial meal of the day. A typical Colombian breakfast, at least in Medellin, comprises deep-fried empanadas made with corn and filled with ground beef, potato and onion. Like a Cornish pasty, but smaller and more lethal.
If this isn’t hearty enough to start your day, fear not. Empanadas are usually accompanied by arepas – corn or flour patties that are fried or baked and sometimes stuffed with meat or cheese. Arepas are a cornerstone of Colombian cuisine, appearing in pretty much every meal of the day. To be considered a Paisa, the nickname given to people from Medellin, you need to eat Arepas three times a day. Our favourites were Arepas de Choclo con Queso – corn Arepas with cheese. They tasted like semi-sweet pancakes and the cheese provided a cool and creamy consistency to complement the warm and fluffy arepa.
To wash it all down, breakfast is typically served with warm sugar-cane juice, pink apple juice or a cup of good Colombian coffee.
Lunch in Colombia
This really is the main event for Colombians. It is not uncommon for Colombian people to have a two-hour lunch break during which time they will eat, spend time with family and friends and catch a cheeky siesta. Lunch options vary across the country, but meat and carbs prevail. The most famous Colombian dish is the Bandeja Paisa.
Bandeja Paisa is to Colombia what ceviche is to Peru. An institution. A national treasure. An absolute JOY.
The Bandeja Paisa is a beast of a meal. It’s an interpretation of the best food, all on one plate.
Local variations exist, but the version served up to us by the infamous Gloria at her self-named restaurant ‘La Gloria de Gloria’ (amazing, right?) is not to be missed.
It features – get ready for it – avocado, rice, a fried egg, ground beef, chorizo, pork belly, lettuce, tomato, and fries. That’s not all. No Bandeja Paisa is complete without morcilla (blood sausage) and a bowl of beans in a thick, beany sauce. Oh, and a side of arepas.Ā Obvs. I need a nap just thinking about it.
Bandeja Paisa is most commonly eaten at weekends, as a special family meal, but even the day-to-day lunch offering is pretty impressive. The corrientazo is a cheap meal including some meat, double-carbs and a side salad. There’s often a meaty soup and a drink to accompany it. We enjoyed a corrientazo with some locals at a humble road-side restaurant on the way back from a weekend trip to the beautiful Villa de Leyva. Not quite as filling as the Bandeja Paisa, but delicious and amazingly cheap at only Ā£2 a portion.
Juices are also a staple of the Colombian diet. With an abundance of fresh fruit at their fingertips, they whip up all sorts of concoctions such as Lulo, Guanabana and Chontaduro y Borojoro which is said to have aphrodisiacal properties. During our tour, David introduced us to lots of fruit we’d never heard of which was… interesting!
http://https://youtu.be/kW6gRkGm94w
Dinner in Colombia
In keeping with their mantra, dinner is a quieter affair. Arepas, again, are commonplace. A typical dinner time treat is hot chocolate with cheese. Yes, you heard right. Chocolate. And cheese. They really love their cheese. We didn’t get the chance to try this delicacy, but were assured it was ‘muy rico’.
https://instagram.com/p/BXa_kL7HFp8/
Desert and other tasty snacks
If, after all that, you are still hungry (what is wrong with you?!) you can indulge in some sweet treats.
SalpicĆ²n is a typical Colombian desert made with ice cream and cheese.Ā It’s like a booze-less English trifle, with cheese on top. Pieces of mango, banana, strawberry and papaya soaked in a rich fruity juice. Topped with vanilla ice-cream, strawberry sauce, a wafer and the all-important cheese shavings. I told you they love their cheese.
Deep-fried donuts are also delicious, and can be found on every street corner. If you are fond of your clear arteries, then perhaps the Caribbean delicacy of breadfruit is more appealing. It is savoury, similar to a potato, and can be scalloped, boiled, fried or mashed. We enjoyed simple breadfruit chips from San Andres, a super cool corner of the world.
With so many delicious meals to choose from, you definitely won’t go hungry in Colombia. We’d love to hear what some of your favourites are!
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I didnt get to Colombia but my experience elsewhere was that south americans eat a LOT of cake for breakfast! And double carbs with every meal! Loved your video!
Yum. Iāll be in Colombia for the first time next December and now I canāt wait! Nothing better than learning a new and colorful cuisine!!!
Honestly, this all looks amazing. Mean Arepas? Coffee? Sold. Nom nom nom. Whenver I go to South America I always get so fat. Lol
Interesting! I don’t think I’ve had Colombian food other than Colombian-style hot dogs at a local restaurant here in Canada haha. I would love to try all the food you mentioned! Especially dinner of chocolate and cheese – that’s right up my alley š hahahah
Pinning this for a future trip!
Well now you’ve opened my eyes to something new – and I definitely want to try it! Maybe not everything haha but a lot of it does look good.
I’ve never tried Colombian food. There are a few colombian restaurants in Buenos Aires, I should try them! It all seems delicious yum
and NOW I am hungry! I need to visit Colombia and eat these dishes, love the look of it – but not sure about that cheese and ice cream dessert!
I am going to Colombia soon. Can’t wait to try every single one of these when I get there! š Love this post! Andrea (@itsaTravelOD)
WOW! That Bandeja Paisa looks amazing (but somewhat intimidating for a solo traveler like me, haha). I’m also intrigued by the breadfruit – I’ve never heard of anything like it! Can’t wait to try these mouth-watering dishes for myself one day!
All this food looks delish!! And no I am really really hungry and craving arepas!!
Cheers
Diana
It’s interesting to see that they place more weight on lunch than dinner.. the food looks so good though!
This is such a good post on what to expect to eat in Colombia, thank you for sharing! That hot chocolate looks all kinds of yummmm!!!
Hahahah I love the video of you trying all the local fruits! Your reactions are amazing. I would probably have the same as I’m not a HUGE fan of sour fruits. The local mantra “Eat like a King for Breakfast, a Prince for lunch and a Pauper for dinner” is awesome. I can definitely get behind that. Although I feel like I’d have to really amp up my workout routine to maintain any kind of shape if I’m going to be eating like a King, Prince and Pauper every day!
Oh there’s a Columbian restaurant near me here in Vienna called Salpicon but I didn’t know it was a certain dessert! I will have to try it out. And that hot chocolate and cheese sounds kind of gross, but looks amazing. It seems like Columbia is a good place to go for an appetite like mine ! š
Omg! Now Iām hungry!! Who knew Columbia had so much?!? I love empanadas…but hot chocolate with cheese!! Sign me up! I love doing food tours…I feel like you can scratch so much more than just the surface!
Aw I love Colombia so much! I was at a volunteer house so our cook was perfection! Love your ideas and oh the food photos!!
I would love a Colombian breakky right now! (although is lunch time here in italy)
This looks amazing!! I regret not having eaten before reading this. You just boosted Colombia a couple spots up on my travel bucketlist. š
Oh my gosh I think I gained weight reading this! Cheese with hot chocolate, I cannot believe it haha that’s insane
The food looks so tempting to me, specially the Colombian desert with cheese and ice cream. A great post for the food lovers who wants explore something new. Happy Travels.
The arepas in Medellin looks very interesting, I would love to try different varieties. For the hot chocolate with cheese? I love chocolate and cheese but I’ve never had them together.
oh wow all this food looks glorious!!! Bandeja Paisa is just my thing!! I don’t know much about South American food – I don’t think I have ever really come across restaurants with Colombian specialities (and it seems that is a shame!) I’d skip the blood sausage though š
Oh yes. I never knew what food in Colombia is like. Now I think I love it.
Ooh, I have never tried hot chocolate and cheese combination, sure does sound yummy. Empanadas and Arepas looks delicious, so does the Salpicon! Iām a cheese lover, so all of these items seem to be totally my kind of meal :).
Columbia would be an incredible country to visit. I’m a little worried about how safe it is to travel here though. The food looks delicious, but very fattening. I think I would stick to the juices!
Colombia is safe, despite common misconceptions. Obvs you need to be careful – like in any major city – but we felt totally safe there.
Empanada sounds interesting, but is there a veggie version of it? The dinner looks amazing! With my sweet tooth, that chocolate con queso and calipicon look so yummy! I’d really love to try those!
Oh my – hot chocolate with cheese? I feel a heart attack coming on! The breakfast empanada looks and sounds absolutely delicious, and Gloria looks seriously sassy. I’d love to eat my way through Colombia and will have to look into going on a food tour here as well!
I’m a food lover and always try to taste as many local cuisines as possible wherever I travel to! It’s true that not many people know much about Colombia’s dishes, so your post is totally an eye-opener! I’d definitely try the Bandeja Paisa if I have the chance to visit Colombia.
Ooh this food looks yummy. I would have had no idea what to expect in terms of food in Colombia
Nooo the cheesey trifle didn’t look worth it!!